world cultures & travelanalysisThe Conversation: Arts + Culture (US)1868–1912 · Japan

White rice with side dishes isn’t really ‘traditional’ Japanese food. So where did we get this idea?

the gist

The idea of a standard Japanese meal of white rice with several side dishes is largely a modern construction. The word washoku was an everyday Meiji-period term from 1868 to 1912, meaning food from Japan, set against a new flood of European foods. It was popularised from the 1960s and was enshrined as a UNESCO intangible heritage item in 2013. Before the 1950s, most people rarely ate pure white rice, which only became common in daily life through wartime rationing. Ramen, often seen as a purely Japanese dish, was developed in the early 1900s by Chinese immigrants.

how it works

Governments, food writers and export programmes have promoted a standard image of Japanese cuisine. Once a version of a food tradition is certified or inscribed, it becomes the official reference and older regional variety fades from the picture.

so what

It shows how food traditions can be shaped by nationalism, tourism and international branding, not just by long history. The same process applies to many national cuisines.

the bigger pattern

Many national cuisines have been reshaped by the same process. Food promotion abroad often freezes a version of a tradition that was itself recent.

The Conversation

Illustrative photo · MichaelMaggs, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons