pop & funanalysisThe Conversation: Food

Why France’s illustrious history of cheesemaking is full of holes

the gist

France's celebrated regional cheese tradition is far younger than its reputation suggests, dating back only about five or six generations. Cheeses from earlier periods are rarely found in archaeology, because they survive only under special climatic conditions. The Celts were known to make cheese, with ceramic strainers found across Celtic Europe. Analysis of the stomach contents of a 5th-century BCE miner from Hallstatt in Austria showed that he had eaten blue cheese. Those Celts had domesticated strains of Penicillium roqueforti, the mould that gives blue cheeses their veins, centuries before blue cheeses were thought to have appeared in the Middle Ages. Roman writers such as Pliny the Elder dismissed barbarian dairy foods as a sign of inferiority, a judgement that reflected cultural prejudice rather than fact.

so what

The idea of ancient French cheese identity is a modern construction shaped by 19th-century industrialisation and national pride. Looking at the older record shows how dairy has long been tied to ideas of civilisation and barbarism.

fun fact

Roquefort's blue veins come from Penicillium roqueforti, the same mould the Hallstatt evidence points to.

The Conversation

Illustrative photo · Unknown author, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons