arts, ideas & societyThe Public Domain Review1495–1505 · Paris and Brussels

Seven medieval tapestries woven around 1500 still hide the meaning of two letters

the gist

The Unicorn Tapestries are seven large wall hangings woven in wool and silk with silver and gilt thread, probably designed in Paris and made in Brussels or Liège around 1495 to 1505. They follow a hunt: the unicorn is tracked, wounded, killed and finally shown tame and chained, possibly alive again. Every flower, animal and gesture carried a medieval meaning, so the unicorn can stand for Christ, a lover, or marriage and fertility. Scholars have also found the letters A and E woven into several scenes, but no one has confirmed what they stand for, and an early idea that Anne of Brittany commissioned them for her wedding has been discredited. The La Rochefoucauld family owned the set for centuries before John D. Rockefeller Jr. bought it and gave it to The Met Cloisters in 1937.

how it works

Tapestries were woven on large looms with coloured wool and silk threads, with precious metals added for highlights. Designers worked from cartoons, and weavers in workshops like Brussels turned them into cloth one row at a time. Medieval art used a shared visual vocabulary of plants, animals and gestures, which is why the scenes carry so many layered meanings.

so what

The tapestries show how much a late medieval viewer could read into a single image, and how much of that code is now lost. They are also one of the finest surviving examples of Flemish weaving, which was the most prestigious luxury art of its time. Their unsolved letters make them a standing puzzle for art historians.

the bigger pattern

Medieval courts used tapestries as portable luxury, hung in halls to show wealth and taste, and they often carried allegories about love and faith. Later mysterious artworks, such as the Bayeux Tapestry, also keep their original purpose partly unclear. Many surviving medieval programmes lost their key texts, so modern viewers reconstruct meaning from fragments.

fun fact

The Unicorn Tapestries were bought by John D. Rockefeller Jr., who donated them to The Met Cloisters in New York in 1937, where they are still displayed.

more on this

background

The Unicorn Tapestries or the Hunt of the Unicorn (French: La Chasse à la licorne) is a series of seven tapestries made in the Southern Netherlands around 1495–1505, and now in The Cloisters in New York City. They were possibly designed in Paris and woven in Brussels. They depict a group of noblemen and hunters in pursuit of a unicorn through an idealised French landscape. The tapestries were woven in wool, metallic threads, and silk. The vibrant colours, still evident today, were produced from dye plants: weld (yellow), madder (red), and woad (blue).

From Wikipedia: The Unicorn Tapestries (CC BY-SA 4.0) ↗

key facts

Country
United States
Founded
1500
Made of
wool

Facts: Wikidata (CC0)

Image: The Public Domain Review