world cultures & travelThe Public Domain Review19th century · Central Asia
Ikat, a weaving technique that dyes the yarn before the cloth exists, and what industrial printing did to it
Ikat is a weaving technique in which bundles of yarn are tied and dyed before they go on the loom, so the pattern exists before the cloth is woven. The name comes from a Malay word meaning to bind, but the method has flourished around the world for over a millennium, from Ecuador and Guatemala to Japan. In the nineteenth century, Bukhara, a Timurid city in modern Uzbekistan on the old Silk Road, was a major centre of ikat production, and its textiles were prized for their blurred, jagged colour. After the Russian Revolution, workshops were moved into state factories, handlooms gave way to machines, and many fabrics labelled as ikat were in fact printed. Today fast-fashion labels sell cheap 'ikat prints' that imitate the real craft.
Real ikat takes enormous skill and coordination, so mass-produced copies hide how much labour the original requires. Small groups of weavers in Central Asia are now working to revive the tradition.
Image: The Public Domain Review
