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Butter or margarine? A food scientist describes their subtle chemical deviations and how they can affect your baked goods

the gist

Butter and margarine are both emulsions of water droplets in a fat matrix made of triglycerides, but their fats differ at the molecular level. Butter is mostly saturated fat, whose straight chains pack tightly, while margarine is made from plant oils whose kinked unsaturated chains pack less neatly. This gives butter a range of fat crystals that soften gradually at room temperature. Butter also contains lactose and proteins that brown when heated, giving a nutty flavour, and its water turns to steam to create flaky layers in pastry. Margarine is colourless until producers add synthetic beta-carotene, and it is often made using interesterification to stay solid in baking. It melts more consistently, but it browns less and performs less like butter in pastry.

so what

Knowing the chemistry explains why the two fats behave differently in cakes, pastry and frying, even when they look similar on the plate. It also shows how industrial processing changes the fats in familiar foods.

fun fact

Margarine was invented in France in 1869 as a cheaper substitute for butter, developed in response to a competition sponsored by Napoleon III.

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Illustrative photo · Maksym Kozlenko, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons