world cultures & travelWikipedia15th century · Milan, Italy
Panettone's tall domed shape comes from a Milanese baker letting the dough rise three times over nearly 20 hours
Panettone is a Christmas bread that originated in Milan, and its name comes from the Milanese dialect word panattón, meaning large bread. Food historian Francine Segan dates it probably to the 15th century, and the oldest certain record is a 1599 college expense list from Pavia that includes ingredients for 13 loaves for students at Christmas. In the early 20th century, Angelo Motta gave the cake its tall dome and light crumb by letting the dough rise three times over almost 20 hours before baking. Gioacchino Alemagna then adapted the recipe around 1925, and the competition between the two bakers pushed production toward industrial scale. Over time panettone spread through Italy and became popular in the south, where artisan versions flavored with local ingredients, such as limoncello in Campania, are now prized.
Long rising, repeated three times, lets yeast build a light, open crumb and a tall dome, while the dough is enriched with butter, eggs and candied fruit.
Panettone shows how a regional Christmas bread became a national symbol through a technique and rivalry between bakers. Its long, slow rise is the reason it is light and sturdy, which is why the cake stood out from heavier holiday breads.
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