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The hoodie descends from medieval monks' hoods but was invented as warm workwear in 1930s New York

the gist

The hood is centuries older than the sweatshirt. Medieval monks wore a hooded cowl, and outdoor workers commonly wore hooded capes, while a short hooded cloak called the capa was common in Normandy and may have brought the style to England after 1066. The modern hooded pullover, though, is an American invention of the 1930s, when Champion began making it in Rochester, New York, for workers in freezing warehouses and factories. It moved into fashion in the 1970s, when hip hop culture in New York and designers such as Norma Kamali embraced it, and it became a sporting staple after its prominent appearance in the 1976 film Rocky. By the 1990s it had become a signal of withdrawal, linked to skaters, surfers and UK ravers, and major designers such as Ralph Lauren and Armani were using it in their collections.

how it works

A hood keeps heat in by covering the head and neck, where a lot of body heat escapes, so it became a practical feature of cloaks and robes long before sweatshirts existed. Knitted cotton fleece is warm and absorbs sweat, which made a pullover with a hood suitable for people working in cold buildings. Once the garment was cheap and comfortable, its casual look made it easy for subcultures to adopt as a badge of identity.

so what

The hoodie shows how everyday clothing travels: a functional garment for cold workers was reshaped by subcultures and then by luxury fashion. Its path from workwear to streetwear explains why so many items people wear casually started with a practical purpose.

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