
world cultures & travelThe Public Domain Review1615–1868 · Edo (Tokyo), Japan
Edo firefighters wore reversible coats, with the lining decorated in heroic scenes
In Edo-period Japan, crowded wooden buildings made fires common, so the city formed firefighting brigades. Brigades were either samurai or commoner groups, and both tore down buildings around a fire to stop it spreading, since water supply was too limited for pumps to be practical. Each firefighter wore a reversible coat called a hikeshi banten, plain on the outside with the brigade's name, and richly decorated inside. The coats were made of layered quilted cotton using sashiko stitching and resist-dyed with the tsutsugaki technique. Firefighters wore them plain side out and soaked them in water before entering a blaze, which protected the dyed designs.
Coats were built from several layers of quilted cotton, and the decoration was applied by resist dyeing, so that water could soak the fabric without destroying the imagery. Wearing the plain side outward protected the designs during the work.
These coats show how a practical garment became a showcase of craft and storytelling. The designs, drawn from legends and kabuki, reveal the popular heroes of the period and the pride of the firefighters.
Edo residents were said to regard fires and quarrels as the flowers of their city.
Image: The Public Domain Review
