arts, ideas & societyWikipedia1996 · London, England
Alexander McQueen's 1995 show The Hunger put a worm-filled corset on the catwalk
The Hunger was the seventh collection by British designer Alexander McQueen, shown for the Spring/Summer 1996 season of his own fashion house. It drew its inspiration from The Hunger, a 1983 erotic horror film about vampires, and was made on a very small budget. The runway show took place at London's Natural History Museum on 23 October 1995, during London Fashion Week. Its centrepiece was a corset of translucent plastic with real worms encased inside, and the models' styling mixed sexuality, violence and death, as was typical of McQueen's early shows. Critics were divided, with some praising it as a highlight of a dull season and others attacking the work as immature or misogynistic. Today it is studied for its cinematic influences and its gothic imagery, and garments from the collection appeared in both stagings of the Savage Beauty retrospective.
The Hunger is a useful case study in how a young designer built a reputation on shock and craft at the same time, a tension that defined much of his later work. Its collaborators went on to become long-term partners in McQueen's studio, so the collection also marks the start of relationships that shaped his career.
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