world cultures & travelWikipedia19th century · Ottoman Empire

The fez, once Ottoman Turkey's symbol of modern reform, was banned in Turkey in 1925 by Atatürk

the gist

The fez is a red, cylindrical, peakless felt hat with a black tassel, also called the tarboosh. Its origins are disputed, and its name may come from the Moroccan city of Fez, where the red dye was once extracted from crimson berries. It became a symbol of the Ottoman Empire in the early 19th century. In 1827 Sultan Mahmud II made it the uniform headdress for his new army, and in 1829 he required all civil and religious officials to wear it, aiming to replace the turban, which marked religious and regional identity. In 1925 it was outlawed in Turkey as part of Ataturk's reforms. It is still worn in parts of South Asia, Southeast Asia, the Middle East, North Africa and Cape Town.

so what

The fez shows how a piece of clothing can be used as a deliberate tool of state reform. Mahmud II's replacement of the turban with the fez was meant to unify the population under one visible identity, and Ataturk's later ban reversed that symbolism.

fun fact

The fez is still worn in Cape Town, South Africa.

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