world cultures & travelWikipedia1920s–1939 · Vietnam

Pho was shaped by the 1954 migration south and by the rationing that followed the war

the gist

Pho, the Vietnamese noodle soup, took its modern form only after several experiments. In the late 1920s vendors tried adding sesame oil, tofu and other ingredients, but these did not catch on. Phở tái, served with rare beef, appeared by 1930, and chicken pho followed in 1939. After the partition of Vietnam in 1954, over a million people moved from North to South Vietnam, and pho became popular in the South, where new garnishes like lime, bean sprouts, basil and sriracha became standard. In the North, private restaurants were nationalized, and during the subsidy period after the war, a meatless version was served because of shortages. Bread or cold rice was often served alongside, which led to the habit of dipping fried dough in the soup.

so what

Pho's history shows how a dish changes with migration, economics and food supply. The version eaten in Vietnam and around the world today grew out of the mixing of northern and southern tastes. Its evolution is a good example of how cuisines respond to history.

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