pop & funWikipedialate 1800s · Taishan, Guangdong, China

Chop suey likely began as Taishan leftovers, not the myths about its American origin

the gist

Chop suey is widely believed to be a Chinese American invention, but anthropologist E. N. Anderson traces it to tsap seui, a mix of miscellaneous leftovers common in Taishan in Guangdong, where many early immigrants came from. Historians say American Chinese restaurants collectively adopted the dish once they saw Americans would enjoy it. Popular origin stories, such as a railroad cook, a dish made for Li Hongzhang's 1896 visit, or a San Francisco cook feeding drunken miners, have no good evidence behind them. Early American newspapers described chop suey as a hash of chicken livers, tripe, bean sprouts and celery. Its popularity peaked in the early 20th century before it was seen as inauthentic.

so what

The dish is a good example of how a cuisine can be reshaped by immigrant restaurants serving local tastes. Its many myths show how food stories are often invented after the fact.

fun fact

Li Hongzhang brought three of his own chefs on his 1896 visit to the United States, so he would not have needed local restaurants to invent a meal.

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