pop & funanalysisThe Conversation: Food1923–2025 · Britain

Kipper cream or fish in custard? A century of magazine recipes reveals how Britain’s seafood tastes have narrowed

the gist

Britain's seafood range in home cooking has narrowed over the past century. Researchers analysed 1,192 fish and shellfish recipes from Good Housekeeping magazine published between 1923 and 2025. In the 1920s, sole, oysters, shrimp, salmon, halibut, lobster and herring appeared in dishes such as oyster cocktails and kipper cream, and almost a third of recipes suggested substitute species. From the 1950s, recipes assumed prepared fillets and frozen products. From the 1970s, cod, haddock, salmon, tuna and prawns dominated, while sole, herring, oysters and lobster faded. The number of species did not collapse, but attention concentrated on a few, driven by supply chains and marketing rather than local catches.

so what

Britain's fish habits are not a timeless tradition of cautious eating but a relatively recent narrowing. Most fish eaten in Britain is now imported, and the familiar five species are the product of global supply and marketing, which suggests that tastes could widen again.

fun fact

Kippers are herring that have been split, salted and smoked.