world cultures & travelanalysisThe Conversation: Arts + Culture (US)

What are the origins of the Asante’s famous kente cloth? I traced its history to find out

the gist

Kente is a hand-woven cloth of the Asante people of Ghana, made by interlacing warp yarns of different colours on a hand-operated loom. Its patterns carry meanings linked to Asante philosophy, moral values, history and belief. Oral tradition credits the craft's origin to two hunters, Opoku Kuragu and Kwakye Ameyaw, who around 1720 copied a spider's web in raffia, producing a first black-and-white cloth. Asante rulers later gave their lineages royal titles for weaving cloth for kings. Bonwire, in the Ashanti Region, is the community most associated with the craft, and families there still teach it to children from about the age of five.

how it works

The loom's warp threads are raised and lowered in sequence while weft threads are passed between them, producing patterns of coloured blocks that weavers can repeat and combine.

so what

Kente is a symbol of Ghanaian heritage, recognised by UNESCO as intangible cultural heritage, and tracing its origins gives the craft a documented history beyond popular myth. It has provided income for Bonwire and nearby communities for more than 300 years.

The Conversation

Illustrative photo · ZSM, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons