money & economicsThe Public Domain Review1800s · South Africa / Europe / America
An 1888 dyeing manual reveals how ostrich feathers became haute couture and a sustainable alternative to plume hunting
In the 19th century dyed ostrich feathers were high fashion, adorning the hats and boas of women on both sides of the Atlantic. Ostrich farming boomed in South Africa, where farms around Oudtshoorn made "feather barons" rich. Dyeing feathers with new synthetic dyes was a skilled craft, and The Practical Ostrich Feather Dyer (1888), by Alexander Paul, includes 48 coloured feather samples on twelve plates. The trade crashed around 1914 with the outbreak of World War I and changing tastes, leaving farms with unsold feathers.
The plume trade shows how fashion drives global commerce and the use of animals, and how a boom can vanish almost overnight. It is also an early example of synthetic dyes changing a craft.
In the early 1900s ostrich feathers were among South Africa's biggest exports, behind only gold, diamonds and wool.
Image: The Public Domain Review
