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Kalamkari cloth is painted or block-printed using only plant dyes and around 23 steps

the gist

Kalamkari is an Indian textile printing art from Andhra Pradesh that uses only natural dyes and a process of around twenty-three steps. The name combines the Persian words kalam, pen, and kari, craftsmanship, a term that came into use under the Golconda sultanate and Mughal patronage. There are two main styles. In Srikalahasti, artists draw freehand with a pen-like bamboo stick and fill colours by hand, and their temple scrolls show scenes from the Ramayana and the Mahabharata. In Machilipatnam, artists use carved wooden blocks and draw Persian-influenced patterns, including the tree of life. Dyes come from roots, leaves and mineral salts, while alum and myrobalan help fix the colour.

so what

Kalamkari shows how a textile craft absorbed Hindu, Persian and Mughal influences and produced two distinct regional styles. Its natural dyes also make it a model of craft that does not depend on factory chemicals.

fun fact

The tree of life is one of the most popular motifs in Machilipatnam kalamkari.

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Photo: The British Museum, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons