world cultures & travelWikipedia1910s–1920s · China

The qipao is a Chinese dress that grew out of Manchu clothing and Western tailoring

the gist

The qipao, also called the cheongsam, is a figure-fitting one-piece dress with a standing collar, a side-slit skirt and frog fasteners on the collar. Its name means banner gown, after the qizhuang, the clothing of the Manchu people. It was developed in the 1910s and 1920s and reshaped by Western-influenced tailoring. It became especially popular in China from the 1920s to the 1960s, and was popularised by socialites and high-society women in Shanghai. The dress blends Manchu ancestry with modern design, which is why it is often seen as an emblem of the Republican era.

how it works

The dress is cut to fit closely, with side slits for movement and a high collar. Its fastenings use frog buttons, a traditional Chinese closure, and the asymmetric overlap is a feature inherited from Manchu robes.

so what

The qipao shows how fashion crosses cultures: a Manchu-derived garment was modernised with Western cuts and became one of the most recognisable symbols of Chinese style.

the bigger pattern

Traditional dress has often been reworked through Western tailoring, such as the kimono's adaptation into Western-style dresses in Japan.

fun fact

The name cheongsam comes from a Cantonese term meaning long shirt.

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