arts, ideas & societyanalysisThe Conversation: Arts + Culture (US)14th-15th centuries · Europe

Why are women’s shoes so pointy? A fashion expert on impractical but stylish footwear

the gist

Pointy shoes began as a fashion for rich men. In 14th and 15th century Europe, wealthy men wore poulaines (or 'cracows', after Kraków), leather shoes with toes up to 12 inches long stuffed with moss or wool. Their impracticality was the point: they showed that the wearer did not do physical work. In 1463 England's Edward IV limited toe length to two inches for anyone below the rank of lord, which protected class distinctions and English textile trade, and the church objected that long toes made kneeling hard. The shoes hurt feet and encouraged bunions. Many cultures have worn painful pointed or tight shoes, from Indian juttis to Chinese lotus shoes, mostly as status markers.

so what

Fashion often rewards visible discomfort because it signals status and belonging. Pointy shoes persist for the same reason as high heels: they mark membership of a group and show wealth.

the bigger pattern

Costly, impractical fashion has long signalled status, from corsets to neck-stretching rings to tall Venetian chopines.

fun fact

Laws that limited who could wear which clothes, called sumptuary laws, were common across medieval and early modern Europe.

The Conversation

Illustrative photo · Ziko, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons