world cultures & travelWikipedia10th century · Baghdad

Nougat traces back to a 10th-century Baghdad recipe that used whipped egg white

the gist

Nougat's earliest clear recipes come from a 10th-century cookbook written in Baghdad, where the confection was called nāṭif, meaning dribbling or trickling for its viscous texture. It included whipped egg white, sweeteners and flavorings. Related sweets appeared in Persia, where a pistachio nougat called gaz became documented in the late 16th century. Nougat reached Spain by the 15th century and southern France in the 17th century. Montélimar nougat became famous across Europe in the 19th century, while Turin chocolatiers created hazelnut versions after Napoleonic trade blockades limited cocoa.

how it works

Nougat is made by whipping egg white or another foaming agent into a syrup of sugar or honey, which sets into a chewy, airy mass. Nuts or flavorings are folded in, and the mixture is cooled and cut.

so what

Nougat shows how a sweet moves along trade routes and changes with local ingredients. Its later forms, including the American candy bar, grew out of immigrant baking traditions and an accidental batch with too many eggs.

fun fact

The Milky Way candy bar, launched in 1923 by the Mars family, drew on a nougat style first made by Minneapolis's Pendergast Candy Company.

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