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world cultures & travelGlobal Voices: Foodlate 19th–20th century · Mexico

Tacos al pastor descend from Lebanese migrants' shawarma, which came from Ottoman-era kitchens

the gist

Tacos al pastor, the Mexican street food built around a rotating spit of pork, grew out of Middle Eastern shawarma. Around 36,000 people from Ottoman lands moved to Mexico between the late 1800s and early 1900s, many of them from the Levant, and they brought their cooking with them. By the 1930s, restaurants serving shawarma existed in Mexico. In the 1960s, Mexican-born children of these Lebanese migrants began using the same vertical rotisserie, but they swapped lamb for pork and marinated it in red chili, creating tacos al pastor. The name means 'in the style of the shepherd', a nod to the original lamb version. The word shawarma itself comes from the Turkish 'çevirme', meaning turning.

how it works

A vertical spit turns meat in front of a heat source, and the outer layer is shaved off as it cooks. Lebanese cooks in Mexico kept this method and changed only the meat and the seasoning.

so what

It shows that a food many people see as purely Mexican is the product of migration, adaptation and two cuisines meeting. The example challenges the idea that authenticity means unchanged tradition.

more on this

background

Al pastor (from Spanish, "herdsman style"), tacos al pastor, or tacos de trompo is a preparation of sliced, spit-grilled meat, usually pork, originating in the Central Mexican region of Puebla where they remain most prominent, though it is a common menu item found in taquerías throughout Mexico. The method of preparing and cooking al pastor is based on the lamb shawarma brought by Lebanese immigrants to the region. Al pastor features a flavor palette that uses traditional Mexican adobada (marinade). It is a popular street food that has spread to the United States. In some places of northern Mexico and coastal Mexico, such as in Baja California, taco al pastor is known as taco de trompo or taco de adobada.

A variation of the dish that uses a combination of Middle Eastern spices and indigenous central Mexican ingredients is called tacos árabes.

From Wikipedia: Al pastor (CC BY-SA 4.0) ↗ · text CC BY-SA 4.0