sportsWikipedia1958 · Yosemite Valley, California, USA

A team spent 18 months hauling gear up El Capitan to make the first ascent of The Nose

the gist

On 12 November 1958 a team led by Warren Harding completed the first ascent of The Nose, the route up the prow of El Capitan in Yosemite Valley. El Capitan is a granite wall of about 900 metres (3,000 ft), and many climbers considered it impossible. Harding's approach was 'siege-style': the team fixed ropes up the wall and returned to the ground between pushes, drilling and hammering in pitons to make progress over a period of more than a year. Harding, nicknamed 'Batso', developed his own gear for big walls, including the 'bat tent' for sleeping on cliffs and 'bat hooks' that grip tiny holds.

how it works

Big-wall climbers use fixed ropes and aid gear, such as pitons and bolts, to climb a cliff too blank to scale with hands and feet alone. They haul food, water and sleeping gear in bags, and sleep in tents hung from the rock.

so what

The climb began big-wall climbing in Yosemite. Later climbers made the route faster and cleaner, using fewer fixed aids, and it has since been climbed free of any hardware and in a single day, which shows how far the sport has progressed.

fun fact

Harding also made the first ascent of the Wall of Early Morning Light, later known as the Dawn Wall, in 1970.

more on this

background

The Nose is a big wall climbing route up El Capitan. Once considered impossible to climb, El Capitan is now the standard for big wall climbing. It is recognized in the historic climbing text Fifty Classic Climbs of North America and considered a classic around the world.

El Capitan has two main faces, the Southwest (on the left when looking directly at the wall) and the Southeast. Between the two faces juts a massive prow. While today there are numerous established routes on both faces, the most popular and historically famous route is The Nose, which follows the massive prow.

From Wikipedia: The Nose (El Capitan) (CC BY-SA 4.0) ↗ · text CC BY-SA 4.0

Adapted from Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia · CC BY-SA 4.0

Image: Wikimedia Commons