world cultures & travelWikipediapost-1945 · Italy

Carbonara probably began in postwar Rome with Allied rations, not in ancient Italian kitchens

the gist

Carbonara is usually linked to old Roman traditions, but the written evidence points to the years after the Second World War. The name does not appear in print until 1939, and the first attested recipe comes from a Chicago cookbook of 1952. Food writers and historians generally date the dish to after the Allied liberation of Rome in 1944. One account credits Army cook Renato Gualandi with serving a version to US soldiers using bacon, cream, cheese and powdered egg yolks, which were plentiful among Allied rations. Historian Eleonora Cozzella links it to an earlier 'spaghetti breakfast' of bacon and eggs over pasta that Allied personnel requested. Pecorino and guanciale gradually replaced bacon in the late 1950s and 1960s, and cream disappeared only in the 1990s.

so what

Carbonara's history is a case study in how a dish becomes 'traditional'. Its ingredients and identity shifted over decades, and the myth of an ancient recipe was partly shaped by later ideas of rustic Italian cooking.

fun fact

A 1954 Italian recipe for carbonara used pancetta, garlic and Gruyère cheese, not the pecorino used today.

more on this

Adapted from Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia · CC BY-SA 4.0

Image: Wikimedia Commons