sportsWikipedia

Surfing was ridden on reed boats and bellies long before the modern surfboard

the gist

Surfing means riding a wave on a board, or sometimes on the body alone. Ancient cultures rode waves on their bellies and knees, the Moche of Peru used reed craft, and Pacific peoples used boards such as the alaia. Modern surfing is mostly stand-up, with several styles including longboarding, shortboarding and stand-up paddling. Big-wave surfers are often towed into waves by jet skis to match their speed. The largest wave ever surfed was 26.2 metres high, ridden by Sebastian Steudtner at Nazare in Portugal, as recognised by Guinness World Records. Surfing became an Olympic sport at the Tokyo 2020 Games.

so what

Surfing's history shows that wave-riding is a very old human skill that developed independently in several places. Its inclusion in the Olympics has brought it to a global audience. Understanding how waves and boards work helps explain why certain beaches produce world-class surf.

fun fact

The giant waves at Nazare form partly because of a deep underwater canyon that focuses swell toward the coast.

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Adapted from Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia · CC BY-SA 4.0

Image: Wikimedia Commons